Chacras de Coria
Days One & Two - Mendoza & the Great South American Eclipse - 2019
Two days spent exploring Mendoza’s boutique wineries - both by foot and by bike.
Map Credit: OpenStreetMap
1. Rabbit Pickle Roll
Clos de Chacras’ lunch menu features a diverse but palate-pleasing menu.
The journey to Mendoza from the United States can only be described as an adventure since there are (as of 2019) no direct flights, thus necessitating an often long transfer. We chose to spend a day walking around Santiago, Chile, before catching a short evening flight over the Andes into Mendoza. After a brief taxi ride, we were welcomed by the warm caretakers of Casas de Campo Las Higueras, a homestay in the Chacras de Coria neighborhood on the south end of the city. The caretakers graciously arranged a bar-be-cue for us upon arrival - naturally, we had an amazingly prepared steak (and a bottle of wine, of course!). The caretakers don’t speak English, but don’t let that discourage you from staying there - they are fluent in Google Translate!
After such a long trek, we decided to stay close by, only arranging for a late lunch at the nearby winery, Clos de Chacras. Each of the menu’s six courses came with a pour (read: nearly full glass) of wine, including the house’s signature Gran Esterpe Malbec.
2. Rolled Pork Flank Steak
The pork was served with sweet potato and mushroom truffle and blackberry.
I highly recommend a visit to Clos de Chacras if you are looking for a low-key introduction to Mendoza and its wine region.
3. Clos de Chacras’ Cellar
Each lunch includes an optional tour of the Clos de Chacras cellar.
Like all good winery tours, this one included a tour of the vineyards and the cellar before inevitably ending at the winery’s shop. Thankfully, the staff here wasn’t too pushy. Of the six varieties of wine we tried with lunch (Rosé, Chardonnay, Merlot, a blend, Malbec, and a Pinot Noir), the Malbec stood out.
The rest of the day was spent exploring Chacras de Coria and collecting supplies. The Panadería Jebbs bakery and La Esquina grocery store nearby our accommodation were great places to stock up. We also passed the Del Monte Lomos sandwich shop, which we tried later in the week (bring friends - the sandwich / french fry combination is gigantic!)
4. Bodega Carmelo Patti
While many wineries in Mendoza are large commercial export operations, Bodega Carmelo Patti is a simpler operation, making wine in a converted garage. The eponymous owner even conducts the tastings!
The following day, we changed gears (pun intended) and borrowed some bikes from Baccus Bikes, a tour organizer in Chacras de Coria which arranges tastings in the nearby area. If you are able, this is a great way to hit up multiple wineries at your own pace - and if you are worried about carrying all the wine you’ve purchased with you, fear not: the company arranges to pick up your order and have it waiting at their office when you return the bicycles.
I had heard about the Bodega Carmelo Patti some time back, and the general consensus was that it is a can’t-miss stop if you are in Mendoza because it is Argentinian winemaking at its purest. Patti, an octogenarian Italian immigrant, is in no small part responsible for the explosion of Mendoza winemaking over the last few decades. While he doesn’t grow his own grapes, all aspects of the wine’s production -selection of the fruit, the blends, and even the years when a certain vintage is released- is entirely up to him. Tours can be difficult to get, particularly because Patti himself conducts them for you - a truly unique experience!
5. Giving Out the Good Stuff
Bodega Carmelo Patti doesn’t hold back on its tours - a thirteen-year-old Malbec from a limited run of 18,300 bottles was on the menu.
Fair warning about Patti: he 1) doesn’t speak English, and 2) is very proud of his operation. But the plaudits he receives are well-deserved in any language. We tried four wines - a Malbec (naturally), a Cabernet Franc, a Cabernet Sauvignon, and a Gran Assemblage. The Cab Sav was the winner of the batch, although the Malbec was also outstanding.
6. Coming Soon to a Table Near Me
Bodega Carmelo Patti generally limits production to 1,000 cases - get ‘em before they’re gone.
Carmelo was very excited to hear that we were from the United States, remarking he doesn’t get too many visitors from there (something I aim to fix, naturally). He was not shy to provide the business card of his American distributor, whom I am sure I will contact often in the future.
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7. Bodega Viamonte #1
The Andes Mountains create a wonderful rain shadow in-and-around Mendoza, perfect for wine growing.
Afterwards, we saddled up (okay, I’ll stop) to head to Bodega Viamonte, a mid-sized vineyard operation. First things first, we received a winery tour which allowed us to take in the Bodega’s beautiful terroir. The tour was impressively comprehensive and was conducted in English that was very easy on the ears. I’d recommend it if you are interested in knowing the ins-and-outs of Argentinian winemaking. Visiting in the austral winter deprives you of the beautiful vineyard color, but allows you to better understand how vines are cultivated and cut.
The initial plan was to have lunch at Viamonte before heading to a third winery; however, after the three-course affair in the vineyard’s cozy dining room, we decided to stick around for a few extra pours before calling it a day. Their Reserve Malbec was my favorite from the varieties we sampled.
The next five photographs are also from the Bodega Viamonte property.
