Moremi South, The Okavango Delta, & Nxai & Makgadikgadi Pans

Days Six, Seven, & Eight - Botswana & Victoria Falls - 2018

After a morning exploring the South Gate area of Moremi Game Reserve, we headed to Maun where we had the opportunity to ride a mokoro on the Okavango Delta. Afterwards, we headed to the Nxai and Makgadikgadi Pans.

1. Moremi South #1

A zebra stands in a clearing, Moremi Game Reserve, Botswana.

If necessary, a zebra will travel over 1000 kilometers (600 miles) to find food.

Our “SMOK 3” / “SMOX 3” mix-up meant we had an unexpected game drive between Xakanaxa and Moremi South Gate. It was a fairly quiet morning with only a handful of animal encounters. But you can’t win them all….

2. Moremi South #2

Giraffe eat from a tree, Moremi Game Reserve, Botswana.

3. Moremi South #3

A giraffe moves through the trees, Moremi Game Reserve, Botswana.

4. Moremi South #4

A lion looks into the sun, Moremi Game Reserve, Botswana.

5. Moremi South #5

A lion licks its mouth, Moremi Game Reserve, Botswana.

6. Moremi South #6

Lions rest underneath a tree, Moremi Game Reserve, Botswana.

7. Moremi South #7

A lion looks forward, Moremi Game Reserve, Botswana.

8. Moremi South #8

A lion looks off into the distance, Moremi Game Reserve, Botswana.

9. The Okavango Delta #1

Mokoro guides travel by canoe along the Okavango Delta, Botswana.

Mokoro guides shuttle travelers northward into the Okavango Delta.

After Moremi, we traveled the short distance to Maun where we checked into a campsite with running water and a bar. After about an hour-long shower, I hit the bar, which was pretty much empty despite the campsite being mostly full. Bunch of wet blankets…. Anyway, the following morning, we headed just outside Maun to link up with some mokoro (hollowed-out canoe) guides who would take us on the river for a couple of hours. A group of travelers were heading up river to spend a night at a lodge on one of the many islands there.

10. The Okavango Delta #2

A hippopotamus sticks its head above the water, Okavango Delta, Botswana.

Hippos are present in these waters, meaning the mokoro guides must stick primarily to the reeds, avoiding open water.

11. The Okavango Delta #3

Zebra graze on an island in the Okavango Delta, Botswana.

Zebras can be found on many of the islands here.

12. The Okavango Delta #4

Hippopotamus stick their heads above water, Okavango Delta, Botswana.

13. The Okavango Delta #5

Birds fly above reeds, Okavango Delta, Botswana.

Yet another case of I couldn’t tell…

14. The Okavango Delta #6

Birds flying above the marsh, Okavango Delta, Botswana.

…which one I liked better….

15. Nxai Pan National Park #1

An oryx in tall grass, Nxai Pan, Botswana.

An oryx looks cautiously into the distance.

Another hour-long shower and bar trip followed our time on the Mokoro. Max and our chef, Moses, departed us at that time (they both live in Maun), and we were joined by a new guide, Morgan, and chef, Snake, both of whom are from Kasane where the tour ends. The following day, we hit the paved road (a welcome relief!) and headed towards Nxai Pan National Park just west of Gweta. Despite the safari park portion of the trip being over, we still saw a few different animals here, to include the elusive oryx.

16. Nxai Pan National Park #2

A bird perched on a bush limb, Nxai Pan National Park, Botswana.

17. Nxai Pan National Park #3

A klipspringer stands in tall grass and bushes, Nxai Pan National Park, Botswana.

Another klipspringer sighting.

18. Nxai Pan National Park #4

An ostrich stands in tall grass, Nxai Pan National Park, Botswana.

We came across several ostriches, which prefer this tall, dry grass and dry environment to lay their eggs.

19. Nxai Pan National Park #5

An ostrich catches a bush limb in its mouth, Nxai Pan National Park, Botswana.

Photographer’s Comment: This picture isn’t out of focus, strictly speaking - the haze coming off the pan’s floor from the intense heat really made a mess of what would have been a great shot. Oh, well.

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Now back to the travelogue!

20. Nxai Pan National Park #6

An ostrich walks through tall grass, Nxai Pan National Park, Botswana.

21. Nxai Pan National Park #7

A giant baobab tree, Nxai Pan National Park, Botswana.

Baobab trees don’t have rings, so predicting their age can be difficult. Baines’ Baobabs are estimated to be several thousand years old.

In the middle of Nxai Pans National Park lies Baines’ Baobabs, a grouping of large baobab trees on the edge of the Kudiakam pan. Thomas Baines and John Chapman -explorers making their way to Victoria Falls in 1862- discovered this clustering of trees, which were named for the former. The latter had a famous baobab named for him -Chapman’s Baobab- which was a famous tourist destination until it died in 2016. Now, Baines’ Baobabs are undoubtedly the most famous and accessible trees of this kind in Botswana.

22. Nxai Pan National Park #8

Giant baobab trees grow in Nxai Pan National Park, Botswana.

23. Nxai Pan National Park #9

A giant baobab tree grows in Nxai Pan National Park, Botswana.

24. Nxai Pan National Park #10

A sideways baobab tree grows in Nxai Pan National Park, Botswana.

25. Nxai Pan National Park #11

A gigantic baobab tree grows in Nxai Pan National Park, Botswana.

26. Makgadikgadi Pan #1

The sun sets over Makgadikgadi Pan, Botswana.

Sunsets produce spectacular blues, purples, reds, and oranges along the Makgadikhadi Pan due to windborne dust.

After leaving Nxai Pan National Park, we headed to a public use area on the Makgadikgadi Pan, a very large salt flat in central Botswana. We set up camp just in time to photograph sunset.

27. Makgadikgadi Pan #2

A spectacular show!

28. Makgadikgadi Pan #3

The Milky Way over Makgadikgadi Pan, Botswana, with silhouettes of two travelers and a camera tripod.

The isolation, crystal clear skies, and perfect flatness of the Makgadikgadi Pan meant that night photography was phenomenal. When choosing a Botswana itinerary, I specifically chose one which included an overnight of camping on the Makgadikgadi just so I could experience the night show. Almost all tour operators overnight in the villages of Gweta or Nata, on the edges of the pan and subject to light pollution. Those folks don’t know what they missed….