Ushuaia & the Drake Lake
Days One, Two, & Three - Antarctica - 2022
A morning spent exploring Ushuaia before a lovely, calm two-day crossing of the Drake Passage.
Editor’s Comment: This travelogue, unlike the rest on this site, doesn’t dive much into the logistics, planning, and execution of the tour itself; this topic was so expansive I covered it in a separate page, About Ocean Endeavour & Sailing with Intrepid Travel / Chimu Adventures on the Best of Antarctica, which I highly encourage you read as a companion piece to this one.
Map Credit: OpenStreetMap
1. Quite the View to Wake Up To
Ushuaia claims the title of world’s southernmost city.
My Antarctic adventure actually began two days before this photograph was taken, in Megalopolis on the East Coast of the United States. Rather than do the intelligent thing and book flights to allow for extra time for sightseeing in Argentina (or, for that matter, extra time in case of flight cancellations), I instead opted to make an intricate series of flights connecting four airports to arrive in Ushuaia the evening before my Antarctic cruise was scheduled to depart. There was little room for error.
The entire trip was nearly undone immediately, as unexpected traffic filled the Interstate on my way to the airport. Making it to the boarding door with about 10 minutes to spare, I was quickly whisked to Atlanta Airport where I caught an overnight connection to Buenos Aires’ Ezeiza Airport. Upon arrival, I had to change airports and transfer to Buenos Aires’ smaller Aeroparque Airport near downtown. Soon enough, I was touching down in Ushuaia’s wonderful little chalet-style airport, which -when viewed alongside the mountainous surroundings- made me think I was landing in a Spanish-speaking enclave of Switzerland or Colorado. By the time I checked into the Wyndham Garden Ushuaia hotel, grabbed some dinner, and went to bed, it was about 10PM and I had been on the move for well over 36 hours.
Waking the next morning, I pulled the blinds back to reveal the positively stunning mountains rimming the little city. The hotel, while inconveniently placed on the outer edge of the town, did have a fantastic party piece.
2. Martial Glacier
Like most of the world’s glaciers, Martial Glacier is shrinking year-by-year; this is unfortunate for Ushuaia, as it is the city’s primary source of drinking water.
After waking and taking in the sights outside my window, I assessed my situation. For reasons that still confound me, I had to ensure my checked bag was at reception by 7AM; this was not ideal given I had only gotten a few hours sleep after such a long journey. I considered taking the brief hike from the hotel up to the Martial Glacier, but instead opted to take a photograph. After getting coffee and breakfast, and speaking with my friend from the United States who met me for this journey, it was decided instead to take a walking tour around the city.
3. First View Down the Beagle
Is this the southernmost switchback road in the world? Maybe?
Grabbing another cup or five of coffee, I stuck my head out the front of the hotel to catch the views southward towards the Beagle Channel. It was an impressively clear day in Ushuaia (or so I was told) and I was totally in awe of the mountains-meet-the-sea landscape.
4. Ocean Endeavour & Le Commandant Charcot
The cost of Antarctic cruising varies considerably; whereas a spot on the Ocean Endeavour (left) could be booked for less than 6,000 U.S. Dollars for its 11-day voyage, Ponant’s Le Commandant Charcot was available for booking starting at 26,680 U.S. Dollars for their 14-day itinerary.
From out front the hotel, I could spot my future temporary home -the proud Ocean Endeavour- already parked at the dock. I would be on her second voyage to the White Continent of the season, and it arrived into port earlier in the day. Quite a neat trick for the crew to completely turn the boat around in less than 12 hours! Moored across from her was Ponant’s Le Commandant Charcot; despite both ships carrying a maximum of 200 passengers per International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO) regulations, the per-passenger footprint was obviously much greater on the Ponant ship. Somehow, I didn’t think we’d have a helicopter landing pad… No matter! We’d step foot on the continent all the same.
5. Ushuaia #1
Ushuaia has a population just under 60,000 souls.
Having sorted out my checked luggage, I checked out of the hotel and headed into the city center. It was a Sunday morning, which meant the vast majority of shops would be closed. No matter: it also meant that much of the foot and car traffic would be minimized, as well.
Three additional photographs from Ushuaia follow.
6. Ushuaia #2
7. Ushuaia #3
8. Ushuaia #4
9. At the Port
Ushuaia is one of five unofficial “Antarctic Gateway” ports, along with Punta Arenas, Chile, Cape Town, South Africa, Hobart, Australia, and Christchurch, New Zealand.
After spending some time, albeit brief, in Ushuaia, it was time to head to the port to board Ocean Endeavour. Except it wasn’t. First, we had to rally by the “End of the World” sign, then be bused over to the port. Cruise embarkations are usually a dumpster fire involving a whole lot of waiting around, and I was not surprised to see this wasn’t markedly different. It did allow me to get a shot of the port …
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Now back to the travelogue!
10. Ocean Endeavour
MS Ocean Endeavour has a long service history: her keel was laid down in 1981 in Szczecin, Poland, as the MS Konstantin Simonov. After service as a Baltic Sea car ferry, she changed owners several times before being retrofitted as an expedition cruise ship and coming into service as Ocean Endeavour.
… and of the boat. Soon enough, I was onboard, checked in, reunited with my checked baggage, and underway. Typical cruise-related activities were executed in short-order -namely, a welcome meeting and a muster drill- but before long we were able to explore this small, albeit plucky, ship.
11. Beagle Channel #1
The Beagle Channel was named after the HMS Beagle during her early 19th century survey of the waterways of southern South America.
After a pleasant Captain’s Welcome (with champagne!), a location and weather update, and our first dinner at sea, I snuck out to the back of the ship to watch us head down the Beagle Channel.
Another Beagle Channel photograph follows.
12. Beagle Channel #2
The first evening onboard was spent socializing with new friends, a few cocktails, and figuring out who could play the ship’s piano (results varied). The vast majority of the ship was pretty tired from their travels to the end of the world … and surely the early-ass wake-up call; ebullience was short-lived in favor of sleep.
13. Southern Ocean Birds #1
There are two types of giant petrels -northern and southern- which mostly have the same distribution … and I can’t tell them apart, so just guess which one this is or something.
The following two days were spent exploring the ship, being given expedition gear, eating, being oriented to the safety protocols for zodiac excursions, exploring the ship, drinking, lectures, eating, sleeping, eating, and more drinking. Let’s be honest, the Drake Passage isn’t the most exciting waterway ever and you have lots of time to do proper vacation and lounge about. This was complete and total Drake Lake: a practical millpond between South America and Antarctica. While some people were battling mild seasickness, malaise and anticipation more commonly afflicted the passengers.
In attempt to break up the monotony, I did attempt to photograph some birds off the back of the ship, which proved rather tricky because 1) the ship is moving, obviously, and 2) these birds are fast!
Five more bird photos follow.
14. Southern Ocean Birds #2
15. Southern Ocean Birds #3
16. Southern Ocean Birds #4
17. Southern Ocean Birds #5
18. Southern Ocean Birds #6
19. Ocean Endeavour Bridge
Ocean Endeavour has an open-bridge policy, which means you can distract and inconvenience the people for whom your health and safety relies while they’re working! Just kidding, it’s a neat perk.
20. Whale Watching
Our voyage was incredibly fortunate to spot many humpback whales (and even an orca) on our travels. This is odd for November, as whales aren’t common in the Drake Passage until later in the cruises season. All the same, relatively clear skies meant passengers could observe and photograph these wonderful creatures.
21. First Sight of Land
Finally! After two whole days of sailing we spotted land, Argentina’s Melchior Base on Gamma Island. It was near dark, and there was light snow falling all around, but I’ll never forget the feeling of gazing Antarctica for the first time so long as I live.
