Riga
Days Four & Five - The Baltics - 2024
The site of unthinkable atrocities, a strange science museum, a lovely boat ride, and an amazing sunset.
Editor’s Comment: The terms “Baltics” and “Baltic” are complicated: geopolitically, the “Baltic states” refer to Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania, the “Baltic region” refers to those states which border the Baltic Sea, and the “Baltic peoples” are those who speak Baltic languages, primarily Latvian and Lithuanian. I apply the term “Baltics” in this travelogue to apply to those states of Baltic region I traveled through, in this case Finland, Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania, and Poland. Additionally, certain characters have been transliterated to be compatible with the fonts used on this website.
1. The Corner House #1
From 1940-1941 and 1944-1991, the Corner House served as an office and detention center for the Soviet KGB and its predecessor agencies, including the MGB and NKVD.
After a solid night’s sleep (day drinking will do that!), we woke up early to head to the airport and collect our rental car and get the show on the road. When we were planning this trip, we planned on visiting the Ligate Bunker en route to Riga; however, tours are required there and run rather infrequently outside of the summer. Naturally, a few weeks before departure I was informed they’d not be running a tour the day we planned to visit, so I called an audible and booked a tour at the Corner House, the former Soviet detention center located on the northeast edge of Riga’s city center.
After a stop in Pärnu for lunch and a coffee break along the way, we arrived at the Corner House with about 90 seconds to spare (planning!), so we didn’t have to wait long for our tour to begin. The first stop on the tour is the prisoner processing office, where the tour guide gives a brief lecture about the facility and its history. Here, you can see the drawers where prisoner’s personal possessions were “stored.”
2. The Corner House #2
From the outside, the Corner House looks like a Victorian-styled apartment building, but the entire ground level of the building held a secret labyrinth of hallways and tunnels for the processing, incarceration, and (yes) execution of mostly political prisoners.
3. The Corner House #3
Generally speaking, the less time you spent in this room the faster you got out of the Corner House … but probably not in the way you had hoped. This was the interrogation room, where prisoners were coerced physically and mentally to confess their crimes (even if they didn’t commit them.)
4. The Corner House #4
There are two types of cells here: larger ones for multiple detainees and single prisoner boxes which measure maybe 1.5 square meters / 4x4 feet. The larger cells were often overcrowded, had wooden beds, were kept at a stifling 30 Celsius / 86 Fahrenheit year-round, and had lights that would come on randomly throughout the night. The smaller boxes were pitch black and had a simple narrow bench seat.
5. The Corner House #5
Prisoners were only allowed to use the toilet once a day; the rest of the time, they’d use a bucket which was rarely emptied.
6. The Corner House #6
Once a week, prisoners were able to travel to the central courtyard where they’d be able to walk around in a circle for a brief period of time with their heads down and hands behind their backs.
7. The Corner House #7
During this time, armed guards would aim down from a gangway above. Overhangs prevented nearby apartment dwellers from seeing the horrors below.
8. The Corner House #8
Prisoners were fed three times a day; however, meals were often as simple as watered-down fish stock.
9. The Corner House #9
At the time of Latvia’s independence in 1991, when the horrors of the Corner Room came into the public consciousness, evidence of at lease 91 shots and some 240 expended rounds were discovered in the facility’s execution chamber.
The last stop on the tour is the execution chamber, where -as the name suggests- prisoners sentenced to death met their demise. In this case, prisoners were executed by firing squad. The heavily-soundproofed room is located adjacent to the building’s central courtyard, and a truck could be backed right up to a loading dock next to the execution room; this allowed for quick disposal of the body outside of public view, but also let the truck’s engine further muffle the rifle fire.
The room has been deconstructed, with multiple walls taken down and other wall coverings removed; this was done possibly to aid in assessing the scale of the executions done here, possibly to accommodate larger groups of people. Either way, the remaining walls have circles indicating the locations of identified bullet holes, and the floor reveals a drain through which bodily fluid remnant could be washed away.
This is an absolutely chilling museum and is -in my opinion- a must-visit if you are traveling in Riga.
Photographer’s Comment: While I am unaware of any prohibition against photographing in the execution chamber, I declined to do so out of respect for those who died there. The photograph above is from the static exhibit in the museum’s small forward waiting area.
10. National Library of Latvia #1
The National Library of Latvia was built in 2008 from a 1989 design by Latvian architect Gunnar Birkerts; it was completed in 2014.
The following morning, we made our way across the Stone Bridge to check out the National Library of Latvia. This is quite an impressive structure, and interested visitors can get a guest pass to take a look around. Be sure to look up at the check-in desk!
11. National Library of Latvia #2
The National Library of Latvia has thirteen floors and is 68 meters / 223 feet tall.
The top floor offers a great view back across Riga. I am being a bit selfish here as this is a library and not an observation tower, but it would be a nice touch if the library left a tiny, bird-friendly circle in the array of frits for a camera or cellphone lens.
12. Daugava #1
The source of the Daugava and the source of the Volga are only 42 kilometers / 26 miles apart in the Valdai Hills of Russia.
Making our way back across the Stone Bridge, we headed towards the Central Market to do some food tasting and grab a coffee. The weather was perfect for walking!
13. Riga Radio & TV Tower
The Riga Radio and TV Tower is presently the tallest tower in the European Union at 368.5 meters / 1,209 feet tall.
As matters currently stand, renting a car as we did is the only viable way tourists can explore the Baltics due to the region’s under-developed interstate rail networks. For example, to get from Tallinn to Riga takes four hours by car or but, but takes over 11 hours by train. This is expected to change with the development of the Rail Baltica, which will provide connectivity between Helsinki, Tallinn, Riga, Vilnius, and points in between to the high speed rail networks of Europe.
14. Daugava #2
Calling it the “Daugava River” would likely be tautology, as the name Daugava almost certainly derives from an ancient word for “river” or “stream.”
Here’s a look back across the river at the National Library of Latvia.
15. Riga Central Market
The Riga Central Market was constructed between 1924 and 1930 from repurposed World War I German Zeppelin hangars.
There are lots of market stalls and small food stands peppered throughout the Central Market, so bring an empty stomach and lots of curiosity!
16. Riga Cathedral
First built in 1211, Riga Cathedral is considered the largest church building the Baltic States.
Heading north, we passed through the city center on our way to the Museum of the History of Medicine. Riga is a lovely city and definitely a pleasant place to stroll around.
17. Solidarity with Ukraine
Despite Latvia having a significant ethnic Russian population (about 23% as of 2024), it remains one of the most vocal critics of the 2022 Russian invasion of Ukraine.
As it is throughout the Baltics, support for Ukraine is extremely pervasive; it is worth noting that about 25% of Latvia’s population is ethnically Russian.
18. Castle Square
The city center of Riga is mostly devoid of green spaces, but as you arrive to the edge of the old town, you find a lovely ring of parkland.
19. Pauls Stradins Museum of the History of Medicine #1
The Paul Stradins Museum of the History of Medicine was founded in 1957 and opened in 1961; the majority of the museum’s first exhibits had come from Stradins’ personal collection, but has been expanded throughout the decades.
We made our way across Kronvalda Park and arrived at the Pauls Stradins Museum of the History of Medicine. I hadn’t heard of this place prior to visiting, but it turns out it has a pretty amazing collection as you’ll see.
20. Pauls Stradins Museum of the History of Medicine #2
While Soviet scientist Vladimir Demikhov is now known as a pioneer in the field of organ transplantation, his mid-century exploratory experiments transplanting one dog’s head onto another were considered unethical even then, but were -according to their performer- intended to demonstrate the independent function of bodily functions.
Arguably the most notable object in the museum’s collection is a two-headed dog.
21. Pauls Stradins Museum of the History of Medicine #3
It is believed Demikhov conducted over 20 such dog head experiments in his lifetime; the one on display was conducted in 1968.
Yes, I meant that - a two-headed dog.
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Now back to the travelogue!
22. Pauls Stradins Museum of the History of Medicine #4
The building which houses the museum was built in the neo-classical style in 1875 and served as a residence, the Belgian Embassy, schools, and even a sports club before being repurposed for its current use.
The museum is a decent size, taking up several floors of a large home along Embassy Row.
23. Pauls Stradins Museum of the History of Medicine #5
Chernushka (“Blackie”) was launched into space aboard Korabl-Sputnik 4 (sometimes referred to as Sputnik 9) on 9 March 1961; she completed one orbit along with famed Soviet mannequin Ivan Ivanovich before returning to Earth, where she lived until 1969.
I’m a huge fan of the early space program (probably the historical topic about which I know the most), and was shocked to see one of the Soviet space dogs in person!
24. Pauls Stradins Museum of the History of Medicine #6
The Soviet space program launched nine dogs into orbit during the 1950s and 1960s; in total, six were successfully recovered.
I honestly can’t tell you how chuffed I was to see it.
25. Pauls Stradins Museum of the History of Medicine #7
U.S. and Soviet spacefarers had significantly different “space food” experiences; a 1988 NASA reported indicated that, “the intake of protein, carbohydrates and fats are significantly higher in cosmonaut diets compared to astronauts [and] mineral elements such as phosphorus, sodium and iron are also significantly higher.”
I’m so used to seeing U.S. space program memorabilia (at the Smithsonian’s Air and Space Museums, the Cosmosphere, etc.), it was a nice change of pace to see objects from the Soviet’s program.
26. Pauls Stradins Museum of the History of Medicine #8
The Yastreb spacesuit was designed in 1966 after the difficulties experienced by Alexei Leonov in wearing his Berkut suit during mankind’s first extravehicular activity.
A sorta selfie.
27. The Embassy of the Russian Federation in Latvia
On 10 March 2022, the street besides the Russian Embassy was renamed "Ukrainas neatkaribas iela (Ukrainian Independence Street.)
Much like its Baltic neighbors, Latvia has engaged in tit-for-tat diplomatic expulsions with the Russian Federation. Just weeks prior to our trip, Latvia expelled a Russian diplomat, and only days before our arrival, Russia declared two Latvian officials personae non gratae.
28. Death’s Head Putin
The so-called “Death’s Head Putin” poster hangs outside the Pauls Stradins Museum of the History of Medicine and faces the Embassy of the Russian Federation; it is a large print version of the 3 March 2022 cover of Ir Magazine by Kriss Salmanis, the caption to which read, “You reap what you sow.”
^^ This.
29. Canal Boat Cruise #1
The Pilsetas Kanals (City Canal) bisects Riga, with the portion between it and Daugava River containing the historical center, Vecriga (Old Riga.)
Sort of spur of the moment, we jumped on a canal boat around Riga. The boat had been pre-booked by a German group so the audio recording was in … well, German. My German is very rusty, but I suspect I got the gist. Anyway, you should certainly take the hour out of your day to do a cruise, it is worth it.
Four more canal cruise photos follow.
30. Canal Boat Cruise #2
31. Canal Boat Cruise #3
32. Canal Boat Cruise #4
33. Canal Boat Cruise #5
Riga Castle was built between 1497 and 1515 by the Livonian Order; it is the third structure which goes by this name, as the first two were destroyed by revolting Rigans.
I should mention the canal cruise also goes out into Daugava River and you can get an excellent view of the city from a unique angle.
34. House of the Blackheads
The House of the Blackheads was built in 1334; destroyed by bombing in 1941 and completely demolished in 1948, it was reconstructed between 1996 and 2000.
Back on dry land, we stopped really quickly at the House of the Blackheads for a quick glance before heading up the spire of St. Peter’s Church for sunset.
35. View from St. Peter’s Church #1
St. Peter’s Church has had three steeples: the first, constructed in 1690, caught fire in 1721 and was rebuilt immediately; this second steeple was destroyed by a fire caused by artillery fire in June 1941; the present steeple was built between 1967 and 1970.
St. Peter’s spire provides another excellent vantage point over Riga; here you can see the repurposed Zeppelin hangers of the Central Market I mentioned earlier.
36. View from St. Peter’s Church #2
The sunset was a cracker, and you should certainly consider heading up St. Peter’s if it is a clear evening.
Two more photographs of the sunset follow.
37. View from St. Peter’s Church #3
38. View from St. Peter’s Church #4
What a way to end a day, eh?
