Savuti to Moremi
Day Five - Botswana & Victoria Falls - 2018
Day five opened with a morning game drive in the Savuti Marsh. After leaving Savuti, we headed to the Khwai River for a lunchtime encounter with a herd of elephants. Afterwards, we headed into Moremi and -due to a campsite booking snafu- we headed to the Xakanaxa area instead of the Khwai area where we were believed to have been booked.
Map Credit: OpenStreetMap
Cartographer’s Comment: The route and game drive areas indicated on this map are merely estimates. While attempts to locate landmarks were made during the game drives and en route between locations, few were noted.
1. Savuti #1
A vulture perches on a dead tree in search of an early morning meal.
The morning of day five was spent in search of the Marsh Pride, a lion pride featured in a National Geographic special. This search would bring us to the southern part of Savuti, an area occasionally flooded but currently dry.
2. Savuti #2
An elderly lioness rests in a field.
Before we could reach the marsh, we came across this elderly lioness whom we assume was unable to keep up with her pride. Max, our guide, plainly and morosely commented, “She is at the end of her time. Soon, the hyenas will finish her off.”
3. Savuti #3
We watched the lioness sullenly for a short period of time before bidding our farewell.
4. Savuti #4
A klipspringer grazes in a field.
We were fortunate to come across this Klipspringer, as they are nocturnal animals and can rarely be photographed in such clear light.
5. Savuti #5
This one was just as startled at our presence as we were its.
6. Savuti #6
The tsessebe is Africa’s fastest antelope, capable of hitting 90 kph (55 mph).
We came across some tsessebes grazing openly on the edge of the Savuti marshland. Due to its speed, it is an incredibly tough meal, and only cheetahs and the fastest lions can bring one down.
7. Savuti #7
A lioness stalks along the edge of the Savuti marshland.
Finally, we came upon the Marsh Pride as it was spotting potential prey along the west edge of the Savuti Marsh.
8. Savuti #8
The Marsh Pride passed less than a meter / yard from our vehicle.
Photographer’s Comment: This picture is a bit of a throw-away, but I included it in this gallery to drive home just how close these lions were to our truck. In the bottom right you can see the side roll bar of the truck. When I tell you I had to lean back to take pictures of the Marsh Pride, it wasn’t because I was afraid it was going to jump into our vehicle (although the smell of Biltong I had in my knapsack was probably quite the temptation); it was because I couldn’t achieve macro with my mid-range telephoto lens due to the closeness of the lions. To be clear, I don’t regret my lens choice, and a swap for my 18-35mm lens would have been foolish, but just make a plan for how you will deal with close-up encounters ahead of time.
9. Savuti #9
10. Savuti #10
11. Savuti #11
12. Savuti #12
13. Savuti #13
14. Savuti #14
15. Savuti #15
16. Savuti #16
17. Savuti #17
18. Savuti #18
19. Savuti #19
20. Savuti #20
21. Savuti #21
22. Savuti #22
23. Savuti #23
Organized and prepared for an early morning hunt, the Marsh Pride emerged from the brush and into the openness of Savuti Marsh. These lions are some of the most formidable hunters in the world since they must contend with open plains and little cover, alerting potential prey to their presence. The risk for the prey is worth the reward - the marsh is plentiful with food and occasionally covered in drinkable water.
24. Savuti #24
25. Savuti #25
26. Savuti #26
27. Savuti #27
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28. Savuti #28
Elephants congregate around one of Savuti’s many artificial waterholes.
As mentioned previously, Savuti goes between periods of wetness and dryness in fairly long cycles (typically one state or the other will persist for years at a time). As Savuti is currently in its dry cycle, the park management has installed solar-powered pumps to push underground water to artificial waterholes. The rational for the park managers is that it is safer for many animals -such as elephants- to be able to live year-round instead of migrating across the continent in search of intermittent supplies of water.
29. Savuti #29
30. Savuti #30
The giant eagle owl is a majestic sight, and one very large bird!
31. Savuti #31
Strangely, we had seen herds and herds of female kudu on our trip, but nary a male and its magnificent 2.5x-twisted horns.
32. Savuti #32
Our second kori bustard sighting, this one rather late in the day.
33. Elephant Encounter #1
Elephants (and two hippopotamus) drink and rest along the Khwai River.
Regrettably, we had to leave Savuti -one of the greatest places I have ever been- to head towards Moremi. En route, Max took us to his favorite lunch location, a spot along the Khwai River where elephants come mid-day to cool down and take a drink. Dozens of elephants showed up in the hour we were there, and it was quite a show!
34. Elephant Encounter #2
35. Elephant Encounter #3
Yeah, we all see it - can’t control nature….
36. Elephant Encounter #4
37. Elephant Encounter #5
38. Elephant Encounter #6
39. Elephant Encounter #7
40. Elephant Encounter #8
41. Elephant Encounter #9
42. Elephant Encounter #10
43. Elephant Encounter #11
44. Moremi #1
A red lechwe looks suspiciously at the passing safari truck.
We arrived at the Khwai Gate of Moremi Game Reserve in early afternoon, excited for the possibility of a long game drive in this area of the park. After receiving our campsite manifest, we headed to our campground (“SMOK 3”), which we found occupied by some glampers. Heading back to the gate, we were told we were not assigned to “SMOK 3” but “SMOX 3” an hour or so away. As best I can tell, the “K” stands for Khwai while the “X” stands for Xakanaxa. Anyway, Max was super apologetic about the lost afternoon game drive and the missed opportunity to explore Khwai.
45. Moremi #2
Having nearly arrived at our campsite, Max tracked down these African wild dogs on a pre-sunset hunt. Quickly giving us the option to follow the dogs or set up camp in the daylight, we opted to track the dogs (obvious call, of course!) For the record, I feel obliged to tell you we were at our campsite (“SMOX 3”) about five minutes before the sun went under the horizon, keeping us in compliance with Botswana national park policy banning night drives.
46. Moremi #3
47. Moremi #4
48. Moremi #5
49. Moremi #6
50. Moremi #7
51. Moremi #8
52. Moremi #9
53. Moremi #10
54. Moremi #11
55. Moremi #12
56. Moremi #13
57. Moremi #14
We ultimately did not find out what the painted dogs were hunting or if they made a successful kill, but a second opportunity to watch these animals hunt went fully appreciated all the same. In total, I estimate I have now seen about 60 wild dogs -about 1% of the entire population of these animals worldwide- and I consider myself lucky for having had this opportunity. I commented for the rest of the trip that I must be the only person alive to have seen three separate packs of wild dogs but never a single leopard or cheetah in the wild (up-close, anyway). Perhaps I am some sort of wild dog whisperer, I don’t know….
